Splendid Sikkim

Indian airlines flight eagled through dense froth of clouds and touched down upon Assam. Hold on, and simmer down your excitement as this isn’t our destination but just a stop over. But it sure deserves a place in this article as even before getting a sneak peek to the city (since we were not allowed to disembark our flight) our inquisitiveness for this city swelled with the hot cookies served to us on flight. They were deliciously the best cookies I’ve ever had that within no time just melted in our mouth. Well marking it as a destination to be traveled later, and with the seat belts sign blinking we were set to take off again.  Soon, with a little thud and a minor jerk our aircraft touched upon mother Earth as we landed here, on a small state nestled in the lap of the Himalayas called ‘Sikkim’.

Adorning the traveler’s hat we were set to explore the capital city of Gangtok. Our first halt was Enchey Monastery. Apart from its religious significance what caught my eye was a plethora of paintings. Each work of art depicted one or the other form of Lord Buddha and was a visual delight with bright colors splashed across and minute detailing done up with such efficacy, I could sit the whole day admiring the intricacy of this art. Definitely my curiosity grew to know the artist behind it and I learnt that it was an amateurish effort by the monks in the monastery, and I for all these times associated them with just studies and meditation. Time whizzed past while I parked myself in the tranquility of the monastery but soon it dawned that we had lots more to visit and that this was just a beginning to the beautiful unknown ahead.



Evening we took a walk down the market place of Gangtok and if you think that the streets of Delhi flanked by mini momo stalls are yum, then what would you have to say about the most simplest restaurant here serving it, undoubtedly a lip smacking scrumptious plate that leaves you craving for more. I perceived young   crowd squatting around, with laughter and cheer in the air, from warm woolen mittens and branded jackets to balloons and bubbles there was everything. Along with a lane of liquor shops! And it was here that I developed respect for this city and before you get me wrong let me delve a little into its detail. With an array of liquor shops and with much crowd in and outside it, worth noticing was the fact that not a single person was seen misbehaving, having liquor in public place and neither of that dingy-dangy walk after 2 pegs down. Yes I was in the north east and quiet literally far away from the land of chauvinism too. Men in this part sure knew how to respect the lady of the house as there were women selling liquor with no harm done to their dignity or respect. 

The next day, we leapt in the gypsy to be driven to the very famous monastery in Sikkim, named – ‘Rumtek Monastery’. Rumtek is located 24 km from Gangtok, at an altitude of about 1500 m. It was built in the 16th century and is currently the largest in Sikkim. A Golden Stupa contains the relics of the 16th Karmapa. Opposite that building is a college, Karma Shri Nalanda Institute for Higher Buddhist Studies. Unfortunately, as we went on a weekend the institute was closed, thus my inability at exploring its library or the general curriculum. But, Buddhism, what I thought to be just another kin of Hinduism, was not just it, but a scholastic discipline also called as Buddhology. There are universities world over that teach it as an academic discipline with higher studies in it too. 

Now from east of Sikkim we headed towards south of Sikkim and were on our way to Namchi when we stopped past Temi Tea garden.  We have heard of Darjeeling tea having the best aroma and taste, well now we have a tough competition in making too. This tea carries are premium the world over and costs around Rs. 200/- a kg and is marked by its exotic odour and flavour. 

As we were still lost in the aroma of the Temi tea leaves, our eyes witnessed the world's largest statue (at 118 feet) of the Buddhist Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Sikkim, Namchi. With hymns of “buddham sharanam gachchaami” reverberating and prayer wheels spinning, it takes you into an altogether different world. 

Every religion has its own custom, Muslims perform sajda, Christians pray with rosemary beads and people following Buddhism spin the prayer wheel.  Tibetan Bhuddhist tradition believes spinning a prayer wheel will have much the same meritorious effect as orally reciting the prayers. The most commonly used mantra in prayer wheels is ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’. This mantra is the resonant vibration that helps tune a human being toward enlightenment energies.

The next place we were ready for was also the main reason that I chose to come to Sikkim. From Gangtok we headed straight to Nathula pass, better known as an offshoot of the ‘old silk route’. Our way up to the pass, was a bumpy ride uphill that the distance of 54km from Gangtok seemed a serpents’ endless tail. Even though the path was rutted and potholed but we cared less as our eyes were treated to unscathed nature. At a height of 13000 ft. high when u see crystal clear water in ponds, people living in the most basic hutments, not adorned by jewelery costing lakhs but each one wears a smile that runs in crores, that’s when you realize 21st century has not yet thrown away into the wilderness terms of purity, contentment and happiness. 

Finally we were there, standing at an altitude of 14790ft high, in front of a war memorial, and gasping for breath we valued the sacrifice of our soldiers who braved the cold, altitude and bullets to save our nation and keep its people safe. A few feet away, with mist hovering the Himalayas, our heart beating akin to thunderbolt, rocky terrains athwart and a mere barbed wire across we could see the People’s Republic of China. It’s bizarre if given a thought that just a barbed line has separated the two great civilizations of the past. As I stood their observing a Chinese and an Indian soldier engaged in a pleasant talk, with smiles and cheers, I imagined if some day they get orders from their superiors both would be ready with their guns triggered, to fire bullets ripping off the other into shreds. 

Greenery never looked so green, Sikkim is indeed an exquisite state renowned not just for its beauty but the sincere efforts of its people who make every attempt in maintaining the glory of the state. A great deal of credit also goes to the Chief Minister Ruling, Pawan Kumar Chamling who has been elected for the fourth consecutive term. Under his leadership, Sikkim is the most peaceful and insurgent free border state, numero uno in social justice in India and 70% of the total plan budget is allocated for the development of the rural areas. And these aren’t just stifled words put together in an election manifesto of the Sikkim Democratic Federation Party but goals accomplished successfully. This year Sikkim has been chosen as the best State in ‘citizen security, 2011’ category by IBN 7, by the national media house during its third ‘IBN7 Diamond States Awards’. 

I guess its time for politicians across India to rise from their slumber. Do come over to Sikkim for a nice holiday and if you stumble upon the very visible and honest efforts made by this state on the path of development you could also try and re-learn the very basics of what is called ‘Democracy’.
Sadly, two places we missed out were Yumtang and Lachung, but am happy as it makes me hopeful of another visit to this splendid place. So, as I pen off, it’s a thumps up from me to this voyage, and until the next destination, “Om Mani Padme Hum”

My tryst with the Rothschild Giraffa

The Giraffe Center: Langata, Kenya

Cantering through the muddy road and leaving behind a trail of dust, we pulled brakes at the Simba Hill Road. Having purchased the entry tickets, we were set to enter the Giraffe Centre. So as my mind quizzed whether this center was a small confinement just enough for the giraffes to breathe? I was brought to believe that it is a vast expanse spread over 114 sq.km. It is widely known as the giraffe sanctuary and is a conservation habitat for the endangered species, the Rothschild giraffe.

Just as I entered, I was stunned at a blissful view, so much so, that my brain forgot to signal my hand to lift the camera and capture this sight!  I stood enraptured as trees swayed under the open blue sky, suns’ rays caressed its leaves and 19 feet tall quadrupeds gracefully meandered through. Before long I was pulled atop a raised observation platform, a care taker (at the Giraffe Center) placed chalk like sticks in my hand and asked me to stretch it out as he called, ‘Ibrahimmmm…’. Two ears from the herd twitched up and slowly Ibrahim sauntered toward us.

Undoubtedly, this Ibrahim’s species tower the animal kingdom by being the tallest. Its slender body with beautiful patchwork of spots (that stands discrete of each giraffe), the tranquility on its face coupled with the grace in its walk can easily have the super models walking the ramp a run for their money!

 

Just as these thoughts were racing through my mind, Ibrahim was right in front of me and his face was just a palm away from mine. Songs and sonnets have been written expanding the beauty of a woman’s eyes, didn’t a poet every notice the khol eyed giraffe with its long eye lashes, big (nearly the size of my palm), beautiful, coal black eyes? Well, let’s get back to business, though I still stood amazed, Ibrahim was hungry and it stretched out its 22 inch tongue for his food resting in my hands. As his tongue scooped up food from my hand I too wriggled as a worm, but how often does a 19ft tall quadruped eat out of your hands, so I reached for his bucket of food and gave him one after the other.

Gradually, it became second nature to pat him with one hand and feed with the other, though later I realized what initially was just a finger in his mouth was my whole hand, now. It was a lifetime experience of being up, front and close to a giraffe (lucky me as what did not actualize was a board saying, ‘beware of head butts’) I thank Ranjith, Mushtaq and Shazmin, who enjoyed the scene from a distance and surely did not want to be thanked with a saliva dripping hand.

Anyways, I had to run back as the caretaker now called, ‘Linnnnn……..'

The IMAX Experience

Bond… James Bond! Celebrating its 50^th anniversary comes another movie from the bond potpourri, ‘SKYFALL’. Meekly I accept this was to be my first bond movie, and my first ever rendezvous with the IMAX theatre.

We went to the Udvar Hazy Centre, Chantilly Virginia; upon our arrival we learnt it was a sold out show and no more tickets available. Bracing our tickets with a pompous smile, we queued outside the theatre an hour before such that we get the best seats (as there are no reservation of seats, only first come first serve). Hold on! I just noticed there aren’t any counters for snacks and drinks, but why?

So as the queue lengthened alike a serpentine, we were proud to be at the serpent’s head, i.e. we were somewhere close to the beginning of the queue and stayed assured that we are to get the best seats. Finally the doors opened and we sauntered in. Though the theatre was small but my eyes gawked seeing the size of the screen. As we got seated I learnt that Airbus Theatre’s screen is 62- feet tall (height of a six story building) and around 90 feet wide, possibly the largest flat movie screen, allowing the audience to be much closer to the screen.

As people bounced and leapt to get the best seat, I observed the theatre spick and span. No smell of Cheese or Nachos, no Coca Cola cups getting trampled under feet and no popcorns crunching on the seats. Thus my mind quizzed, is this movie that good, where there is no time for a straying thought to reach the popcorns or aerated drinks?

“Ladies and gentlemen please be seated as we are about to begin the show.” So as the movie unrolled and Bond sneaked into the room, it seemed we were prowling right behind. The increased resolution pulls the audience in through the screen. Thus when Bond drowned, I felt water gurgling above my head. When the helicopter crashed and the train cannoned into the tunnel, I felt the chill running down my spine.

Aha! Now it answers my question as to why Airbus IMAX theatre erased out a snack counter? All in all though the movie might not be that great but the whole idea of watching it in IMAX made the difference. I admit, someone like me, bugged with very short attention span, did not budge from seat and at no time did a faintly drifting thought yearn some popcorn or juice. No doubt, it is called the IMAX experience, sure it was!

Memories of an Outlander

Seven seas across, as an outlander amidst unknown faces and an absolutely unknown future, I sit by mycasement and gleam into, what now seems, a bygone eon.

It has been more than an year since I shifted from the capital of India to the capital of the United States ofAmerica. And one question reaches me no matter where I am, ‘Do you like the USA?’ well, yes I do.

The predominance of law, which is unscathed of corruption or casteism, is fully implemented without

collecting cobwebs in the pages of the American constitution. The discipline with which its citizens (at

least a majority of them) abide by its rules and regulation. The immediate medical attention received at

the dial of 911 no matter who you are, a pauper or a prince. The customer service policy of this capitalisteconomy has me gawked. The courtesy and mannerisms of its’ people taught me ‘thank you’ and ‘excuseme’ need to be used often and not allowed to rot in the dictionary.

But… I miss India! The last one year has had me yearning for my family and friends. Be it a simple walkdown the neighborhood sucking ice- candies that sucked our troubles too, nibbling grilled corn on theterrace ate away our trifling worries. The colors splashed on the canvas had brightened our lives as well.Flying kites and seeing it reach the zenith we saw our dreams touching the horizon. Strumming the guitar was music and dedication for some but for us, it stood as the epitome for inner satisfaction and fun. Secrets and mischief were exchanged by way of eyes and naah! We never needed words to communicate them. 

I express my gratitude to the Indian Railways that always make my summer vacation a very fond memory. I could not contain my anxiety when the station nears and I peep out of the window wishing to be the first to spot my Ammama and Muthachan. And when the train is just about to halt I jump off the bogie to land in my Grandparents arms. I miss the famous Indian roads as well, imagining the busy roads that still manage a smooth flow of traffic without the strict adherence to lane driving. Some sort of a hidden understanding that has this chaos organized breaks me into a bewildering smile. I miss the by-lanes of our colonies that echoed with noise pollution, No, not of the X-boxes or computer games but with the little Tendulkars shattering the windowpanes and the neighbors scolding them left and right (which always fell on deaf ears). Amma’s cuisine that was most enjoyable when we’d dine together watching Acha’s old Malayalam movies on Asianet, laughter and cheer would fill the room especially when movies were comically well timed. I yearn to hear Amma’s humming of old hindi songs from the kitchen and Acha’s fingers tapping to the songs of Vayalar Ramavarma. 

Over the fence exchange of news and views with the neighbors, where the Kerala aapam and chicken curry was bartered over the fence into the Punjabi house and from there the daal makhani and chiken tikka made its way to our dining table. Our Nagaland neighbor aunty made an indescribable egg chutney; just the thought of it has my taste buds tinkering. Amongst other things that I miss, is my workspace at the National Radio (AIR) broadcasting station. When the clock strikes 8.30pm, the red light outside the studio indicates, live bulletin broadcast and as the music fades out, the microphone

helped me to reach more than a many, as I vocalized, ‘Welcome to this edition of the World News…’

Living up festivals is immensely missed. Getting soaked in the colors of Holi. Satisfying the gluttony for sweets on Eid and Durga Pooja. Sleepless nights we cousins enjoyed, preparing the Tiruvadirakali for Onam. Lighting up the house with diyas, candles and decorating the street with Rangoli, we welcomed Deepavali. Mind you, it was not just the fun and play that I miss but the cultural union that brought us all together. The very soul of this diverse yet amalgam existence is one of the chief things I long for.

So as life’s wheel chugs ahead lost in the dust are the golden memories of a life greatly lived. Hold on!

Such golden memories can never be lost. Thus, I wrap them up and deposit it in a safe corner of my heart as this outlander is all set to make another set of great memories, after all from here on life’s journey does not just have ‘Me’ but my ‘Me’non too. On the foundation of bona fide trust, a little mischief and his hand held in mine, hey world! Make way, for here we come to draft another chapter to the ‘Memories of an

Outlander’.

Delhi Darshan

Sledging down the valleys of Kashmir and landing atop the Camel in Rajasthan. We smelled the tranquility in the monasteries of Sikkim and soaked our selves in the archipelago of the Andaman Islands. So now, lets brace ourselves to be embraced in the warmth of the National Capital Territory of Delhi. The moment we say Delhi the Parliament, the grandeur of the Rashtrapati Bhavan or the Qutub Minar flashes before our eyes. But there is lot more to the capital of India. Adorning the traveler’s hat we take a detour and decide not to reconnoiter places that fall under the tourist attraction menu of the package tour.

Stepping out of the cosmopolitan Delhi we stepped into the historical labyrinth called ‘Dilli’. Located on the banks of the River Yamuna, Delhi was inhabited since the 6th century BC. It is also widely believed to have been the site of Indraprastha, the legendary capital of the Pandavas during the times of the Mahabharata. In 1639, Mughal emperor Shahjahan built a walled city in Delhi, which served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1649-1857. And as we reckon this information we arrive at Shahjahan’s walled city’s legendary major street called the Chandni Chowk.

Chandni Chowk today might appear choked with congestion but saunter down and you will see the ancient beauty through the creeks of this congestion. Chandni Chowk is adorned with many a havelis, its by lanes are clogged with small shops selling everything from strands of yarns to fully made heavy sarees. The very famous sweet house the Ghantewala Halwai or the lip smacking Paranthe waali gali, will draw you to this place more than the words of this article! The most striking thing about this place is that people of all faith live together in great respect and modern India has never witnessed any form of communal violence. If there is the Jama Masjid, the foundation of which was laid by Shahjahan in 1650 AD on one side then there is also the Sis Ganj Sahib Gurudwara constructed on the martyrdom of the 9^th Sikh guru Tegh Bahadur. And if there is a revered place for the Gauri Shankar Temple built by a Maratha general Appa Gandgadhar in 1761, then there also stands the Christian Central Baptist Church erected in 1814.

Absorbing these facts and after a palatable food for thought and appetite, we headed for our next destination, and this time we chose a locomotive that stands as a jewel in Delhi’s crown, the Delhi Metro Rail. The metro rail is a blessing in avoiding traffic clogging and kudos to the man who engineered such a marvel. The rail is swift, low cost and conveniently drops us at our destination in a couple of minutes. We crawled onto the violet line of the metro and until our journey halted we could safely say that it was a very comfortable journey and indeed technologically way advanced. Mr. E. Sreedharan is undoubtedly a deserving recipient of the Padma Shri award.

Out of the Kalkaji metro station and in we were at our next haven, the Bahá'í Temple or famously called the Lotus Temple. Bahá'í is a faith that preaches monotheism. The Bahá'í laws emphasize that it is a gathering place where people of all religions may worship God without denominational restrictions. Apart from its pristine reverence, the place holds you with its magnificent architecture, which is akin to a lotus. It’s designed by Fariborz Sahba and the structure has won many laurels to its’ credit too. The best time to be here is at the evening. As you sink yourself in its floral garden and wait for the sun to bid adieu, the lights around the temple are lit and your eyes are treated to the beauty of a giant lotus half unfurled. The structure purely looks immaculate.

Apart from these modern day structures the glory of the city has been upheld by the ancient architectural manifestations, the Red fort- that features in UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Mughal Emperor Humayun’s majestic Tomb, the President’s domicile the Rashtrapati Bhavan and in it the famed Mughal Gardens.

Flanked with embassies on either side, we drove down the Shanti path, a pleasant boulevard for those who love to drive amidst serenity. And within no time we stood in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan’s colossal entrance. I was lucky to get a peek-a-boo into the president’s abode as we walked down its corridor’s to reach the sprawling Mughal Gardens. The garden is opened to the public for a month, most usually for the month of February, as part of the annual 'Rashtrapati Bhavan Udyanotsav'. It showcases a combination of the formal Mughal style with the British garden designs. We were fortunate to have strolled in the traditional Mughal Garden, Musical Garden, Spiritual Garden, Herbal Garden, Biodiversity Park and bewildering was the fact that in a metropolis like Delhi we could taste the smell of oxygen, which I thought was limited just to the chemistry books.

Ladies reading this article will bow in acceptance, as to how can a travel end without, ‘shopping’! Though there’s a trail of shopping malls mushrooming across the city but shopping in bazaars still has its own charm. Markets like Sarojini nagar and Karol Bagh offers you the best footwear or casual dresses and markets like Lajpat Nagar and Chandni Chowk are a paradise for traditional north Indian outfits and jewelry. And if you wish to own an accessory of a certain state, you still wont be disheartened, as a line of state emporiums in Connaught place come to your rescue. After a days’ heavy shopping if your stomach grumbles Delhi offers you a multitude of cuisine too. Be it the Mughlai food at the Karim’s in Old Delhi, the south Indian food at Sarvana bhavan or the Bengali sweets tickling your taste buds at the Bangla Sweet House in Connaught place. And if you wish to relish this all these flavors at one place, it is the Dilli Haat, which offers a plethora of food items from the length and breadth of secular India.

Winding up this bird’s eye view of Delhi my brain starts pondering that if Tamil Nadu is an abode for tamilians, Punjab for Punjabis or Calcutta for Bengalis, Delhi can safely be called a cosmopolitan, as we see people from all walks of life, with their multitude of languages and culture, painting in the color of secularism and in true sense illuminating the fact that it is a mini India. So, is Delhi on your checklist as the next place to traverse???

Charlotte, North Carolina

The July 4^th, (American Independence Day) brought with it a long weekend, when a sudden plan made us hit the road to head towards Charlotte, North Carolina.

The city is the second largest financial center following New York and home to the Nascar Hall of Fame, and before you think the paragraphs coming forth is a chronicle on the tourist spots we visited, I shall have you informed that no it isn’t, but it is surely rated as my best escapade in the USA.

This trip brought us to meet a wonderful couple, Smitha & Sanjeev, with their little bundle of joy, Ayush. A warm smile from them instantly had us bonded with them. After an year and a half I met a person who mirrored me. It was a fun filled weekend as we enjoyed lunch at the Blue Taj, where Smithchechi and I gulped more than a many paani puris (the best ones in USA so far). Mural painting was something that always had me gawked and appreciative of and there was nothing more I can ask when she offered to teach me the nuances of Mural painting. Beautiful artwork by Smithchechi adorned their home. Opps! Did I miss little Ayush’s artwork on the walls that brought life to their home. Evenings were dedicated to swimming, where Smithchech’s pep talk had me enter the 3.5ft deep pool and with my hubby’s patience and encouragement I waded my way into the pool and now atleast know how to paddle my feet in water. Sunday dinner was a treat by the men; Ranju and Sanjuettan cooked a simple but truly a yummy dinner.  The dinner was thoroughly enjoyed by us all when we sat together and watched a Malayalam movie. Little Ayush’s mischief and restlessness had us all on our toes. His chuckles and wobbly talk(ninee noush - minnie mouse, bak car - black car, apo jush - apple juice, babush - bubbles) made sure we always had smiles on our faces, a 2 year old complete entertainment channel is all that I can call him. Watching him and Ranju play together, made it difficult to fathom who amongst the two is the youngest!

 The relaxing time we spent at their home made me reaffirm that just being practical is not what life is all about. The beauty of their relationship and the love they share helps them sail the toughest time with a smile on their face. Touchwood! Touchwod!

After an year and half in the USA, I was on a verge to accept that being practical and independent is the essence of survival here, until I met this adorable couple who reaffirmed my belief in the principles I abided all these years, of simplicity, empathy and understanding.  

Thus, this traveller is not returning empty handed, even if I did not study the building blocks of the Mint Museum of Art or the NASCAR Hall of Fame, I am glad of the rendezvous with the most adorable couple.

A big thank you to my hubby, who kept his overload, pending office work aside just to see that smile gleam on my face and decided to head for this small vacation. Dear, hope you had a good day at work, today?